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It's not hard to fall in love with the Amalfi coast. I still remember the first words that I muttered to my girlfriend Liv upon setting foot off the train in Sorrento and wandering down to Parco Lauro, "I'm in love!" Such a beautiful town I had never set my eyes upon and right then I should have realised that this place would never leave my heart. I'd heard about the enchantment of Italy but until this day I'd always put it down to the over sentimental nature of my nonna back in Melbourne.
It was late May and after scouring accommodation options for nearly an hour we ventured past the lemon grove on Corsa Italia and stumbled across the Hotel Central Sorrento which despite its misguiding name - it wasn't very central - it was quite a quaint yet classy hotel (much classier than the hovels we were used to anyway) beautifully simple with a homely vibe about it. Of course it was well beyond our budget but being desperate travelers I managed to wrangle a cheap room for as long as we would need it. The best part of two weeks were spent just relaxing and walking the streets of Sorrento, most mornings we could be found down in Parco Lauro as we made our way one at a time through all the different pastries and cakes in the tiny shop just off the park. The evenings were spent down at Piazza Tasso eating margherita pizza's and drinking the vino whilst the locals and tourists mingled peacefully in this amazingly calm town. We did do all the touristy things, you know the mandatory hydrofoil trip over to the magical Capri and a day trip back on the Circumvesuviana to Pompeii and then of course the bus trip over to Positano. But truly it was the delight of Sorrento that appealed to me more than any tourist trap. The little laneways with fruit, vegetables and spices hanging from the first floor balcony in front of tiny shops selling local wares including numerous limone liquours, Piazza Tasso with its gorgeous ristorante's, the port down at the end of Via de Maio, the lemon and orange groves spattered amongst hotels and residences at the eastern end of Corsa Italia. Delightful had become my favourite word since being here and Liv and I were more in love than we'd ever been.
It was on one of these aimless rambles around Sorrento that Liv and I came across the Communale 'Italia'. Yes a football stadium, although more a pitch than a stadium with three sides enclosed by concrete terraces and the eastern sideline just a fence backing onto Via Califano. I found myself standing on the western terrace with a handful of forty something parents watching a bunch of kids (obviously their kids) training in the majestically black and red striped kit of the local club I assumed. A few minutes later Liv joined me on the terrace with a slightly irritated look on her face. "You know if I see some real football I can't help myself. Hell Liv football is my life - it's what I’m good at." A wry smile came over her face, "it's nice to see you get passionate about something, who plays here anyway?" I didn't even know who played here. On the way out I saw a freshly plastered poster next to the gate. 'AS Sorrento Calcio v Savoia' the club was AS Sorrento and after a few poorly elocuted questions to one of the parents I discovered that they were playing in the Serie D and this season they have a chance of winning their league and pushing for a spot in Serie C for the first time in almost thirty years.
That was almost six years ago now. Liv and I left Sorrento and continued our travels up to Rome then the South of France and Spain before hitting the United Kingdom and finally returning exhausted to Australia. We'd spent just on three months travelling around Europe and of all the beautiful places I’d opened myself up to there was only one place that I wanted to be, predictable I know but I couldn't stop thinking about Sorrento. Despite my career back in the supermarket going from strength to strength and my sunday football club pushing for the title again my heart wasn't here anymore.
Then one of those life changing moments occurred.
Just a couple of months ago Liv and I broke it off, she was so career oriented and I simply wasn't prepared to play second fiddle to her career as she jetted of to Sydney or Perth every other week. It was like someone flicked a little switch in my brain. You see it was my thirty-second birthday in April and I decided to follow my heart. I handed in my box cutter and tie and I left my Australian family behind. I didn't know how I would get to Sorrento or what I would do when I got there but I knew I had to get out of here. That's why I said I was leaving my Australian family behind you see I’ve grown up in Australia but my father is a Piccolino and he came out from Italy when he was just twelve. Dad grew up in a little town called Certaldo which is in the Val d'Elsa between Florence and Siena and he still has family there although none of our side have been back for over thirty years. I'm sure they will still welcome me in as family. Before heading to Italy I’d already decided to spend a couple of months dossing with an old mate of Liv's who's an accountant in London. I think he's sharing a place near Fulham.
The time in London has been great but I’m starting to feel that I’m just prolonging the agony. It was just two weeks since I landed here but after planning an eight week stay I knew what I had to do and I had to do it now. A dodgy flight to Rome would do the trick, the cheapest and fastest way to Italy without a doubt.
Upon landing in Rome I found myself on the Leonardo Express heading rapidly to the Stazione Termini in the city. Leonardo da Vinci airport became a blur as we took off on the half hour trip. To be fair my mind was also a blur - what am I doing? What do I expect to find in Sorrento? For all I knew I was well on my to spending my entire life savings on a pipe dream that will no doubt end with me homeless on the streets of Naples - a mile away from the peace and tranquillity of suburban Adelaide.
The Leonardo Express was unusually on time. As I’d done six years previously I searched the termini in Rome for a quick bite and then grabbed a couple of tickets for the first train to Naples. With a couple of hours to wait I chose to settle in on the cold metal bench with a couple of travel guides I’d picked up at Fulham Broadway.
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History of Sorrento
The name “Surrentum” seems to be connected to the myth of Sirens. They were sea creatures, half women and half fishes, who bewitched the sailors with their songs and forced them to be shipwrecked on the coastal rocks.
As the Odyssey tells us, Ulysses succeeded in defeating them by stuffing his mates’ ears with wax and asking them to tie him up to the mainmast. According to the legend, the Sirens were so humbled by this action that turned themselves into the rocks which today are called Li Galli, facing Positano.
Sorrento was probably founded by the Phoenicians, but then it was also a Greek colony which later became Roman. Even if it often rebelled against Rome’s dominion, it had never been destroyed and so it became the privileged seat of the Roman patriciate during the imperial period.
Later Sorrento was dominated by the Gothes, by the Longobards and, in 552, by the Byzantines. Then it was transformed into a dukedom in the 9th century, with periods of domination and others of relative freedom.
In 1133 the Norman Conquest arrived and so, from that moment on, Sorrento shared the lot of the region itself. In 1558, in spite of a desperate defence, Sorrento was sacked by the Turkish pirates and so, from now on, it was surrounded by defensive walls, which were built by following the old Roman lay-out.
Sorrento had always been a proud and aristocratic town, often in conflict with the nearby villages. It participated in the Masaniello revolution too, and it had been besieged 14 months long. In 1799 it became part of the Neapolitan Republic and so it became again theatre of fights between Republicans and Bourbonists.
Anyway, since the 18th century on, it got the characteristics of a refined holiday resort.
The thoughts of the sirens sent my mind away from everything that was Italy and back home to Liv. Despite splitting up we have stayed in touch regularly but since I arrived in London I hadn't even contemplated friends and family back home. For a moment I almost forgot who I’m doing this for - me. Move on. Forget all of that. I know I could spend my waking hours just dreaming of what could have been, but that's what I’m here for.
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Food
Sorrento gastronomy has got a broad range of tasty dishes that reflect the harmony and the tastes of the region.
Besides the well known Sorrento walnuts, which have got a particular size and are particularly good, you can find a delicious Limoncello (a lemon liqueur).
Besides the well known Sorrento walnuts you can find a delicious Limoncello (a lemon liqueur).
Sorrento cooking is also famous for the use, in many dishes, of the mozzarella fior di latte, with its definite and delicate taste at the same time.
Among the starters you can taste the gnocchi alla sorrentina and, obviously, the spaghetti con le noci. Among the sweets the bab* are delicious (typical of Campania pastry) and the cannoli alla sorrentina, filled with custard.
Events
Sorrento is rich in cultural and artistic activities and also in outdoor celebrations which are held all year round, thanks to its mild climate and its natural and artistic heritage.
Two famous events are the International Music Festival that goes on in July, August and September and the International Cinema Festival.
The celebrations include the Patron Saint Feast and Carnival in February, St Anne’s Feast and the Sea Festival (in Marina Grande) in July.
Two other famous events are the International Music Festival that goes on in July, August and September and the International Cinema Festival.
From June to September, in the nearby Ravello, there is the Wagner Music Festival, a musical festival dedicated to Richard Wagner first debuted in 1953, presenting a series of symphony and chamber concerts every year.
I never have been big on culture. Perhaps I’ll just stick to following the Sorrentino. Much more my scene really. But my god, I’d almost forgotten about the food. That's it - worst case scenario I’ll get a job in a restaurant washing dishes are something. If I can make a living here then I’ll be giving myself a chance to live. Simple as that.
I settled in my seat after wrestling with an impenetrable fortress of travel bags belonging to dear little Italian ladies. Finally relaxed I let my eyes drift away a little. With a sudden jolt I stirred. We were on our way finally. It was with great comfort as I blinked my eyes open to see sitting across from me a sight I’d forgotten with six years absence. How the beauty of the female Italian form had escaped my mind I had no idea, from this day that would never be a problem I’ll need to worry about. With my rusty Italian I managed to talk my way out of a rather awkward situation. Just a note of warning, try not to stare at strangers no matter how enchanting they are as it will only cause trouble. Well it broke the ice none the less. Sure she was looking at me like I was a serial killer but at least she had spoken to me. Her name was Mariana and it appeared that was all she was about to divulge to a prospective stalker.
After a peaceful night at the Casanova Hotel in Naples (any hotel described by the lonely planet guide as 'sounds like a brothel, but it's quiet, safe and friendly in a good way' has got to be good) I headed back towards Stazione Centrale. The next train on the Circumvesuviana line to Sorrento didn't leave for twenty minutes so I had time to spare. Which is handy in a city that feels like a car crash - in a good way. You see Naples is as full-on a city as you could find, every step you take you are overcome by a hundred people rushing but apparently going nowhere. Then if you stop moving you'll be instantly surrounded by street urchins with wrapped up bundles of joy that they will gladly trade in for the euros in your back pocket. Anyway this is sounding like a travel guide. The train arrived and the sweaty masses rushed on. My friends always referred to travelling to Naples as something that you survive rather than enjoy. To put it simply it's a city that opens your eyes and to be honest most western travellers don't necessarily like having their eyes opened too much.
My first real taste of the Campania region for six years blurred past as I stood in the doorway looking out over the Bay of Naples. The warm air rushing past welcomed me in and before I knew it the train had reached the end of the line. Sorrento. I quickly discovered that not a lot changes in towns like this. The Hotel Central Sorrento was booked out so I headed back to Ostello delle Sirene a bit of a backpackers dorm near the station. I knew I could stay here a while while I sorted out what I would actually be doing here in Sorrento.
Just a couple of days of wandering the streets and I was feeling very comfortable with my decision. I really like this place. Parco Lauro and Piazza Tasso were just as I remembered them. So frantic yet harmonious, this little town of less than twenty thousand people represented all the best parts of Italian culture. A passionate and blessed people always willing to embrace the simple things in life, and always prepared to welcome a relative stranger.
All this wandering inevitably brought me to Via Califano and Communale Italia the home ground of AS Sorrento. Just yesterday I'd spoken to a couple of locals about the recent history of the club and was excited to hear that last month they'd won promotion to the Serie C for the first time in almost fifteen years. A play-off victory had seen their dream come to fruition and the locals were very proud. As much as I loved to talk football even I had to excuse myself - it seemed all of Sorrento was buzzing with the clubs relative success.
The door to the clubrooms was open and although there appeared to be no-one inside I pushed the door and ventured over to the meagre trophy cabinet. A door opened at the end of the room and I stood stunned as Mariana strode confidently towards me.
Thanks hibee. Slow and steady will be my style.
__________
As I turned to make myself known to Mariana she almost fell over in shock as I stepped away from the cabinet. Apparently I was in the shadows and no wonder she hadn't acknowledged me straight away. She hadn't even seen me.
Once we'd worked through the initial shock and embarrassment on her part I managed to once more convince her I wasn't stalking her (I had to think quick here) and the next thing I knew I was waiting in her office beneath the Tribuna Centrale as she tried to find the club's head coach Pino La Scala. It looked like I was about to be interviewed for a spot on the coaching staff here in Sorrento. When I originally mentioned my reasoning for being in the clubrooms I thought it might get me off Mariana's hitlist little did I know she'd take seriously someone who states they were hoping to "speak to someone about working with the team".
Apparently the coaching staff had been depleted after two senior coaches had departed the sunny climes of Sorrento for jobs up in the Serie C1. La Scala was quite an affable man and he made it certain that if I showed some degree of coaching competence over the next week then I’d be taken on for the season in a full-time coaching capacity. It seemed the coaching badges I’d completed back in Australia would qualify me well enough. La Scala called Mariana back and it seemed the formalities were to be completed.
Sorrento and the Amalfi 
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